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Diesel Fuel and Brake Fluid Resistant Coatings?

How do Rust Bullet Concrete Coatings Stand up to Bio Diesel & Brake Fluid?

Rust Bullet Garage Floor Coating in Bio Diesel for 7 YearsI have this ridiculous notion that coatings that are applied in garages, shops and industrial floors should be resistant to the stuff that is used in those areas. Silly right :-) Now I have to offer this disclaimer. You know those TV commercials where you see a guy driving his car and doing a ridiculous stunt. Then they tell you ‘Do not attempt.’ Please don’t turn your garage into a brake fluid or diesel fuel swimming pool! Please clean things up that spill on your floor and for heavens sake, please do not attempt to store products that have fumes in a pickle jar :-)

This is just one more reason we are so impressed with the Rust Bullet line of coatings. The amazing adhesion, lack of prep needed and incredible test results leave us, and hopefully you floored. Remember to check out their ASTM testing summary as well

Here is the story behind the story, then more picture.

I attached a few pics  of the coated panels that have been soaking in Bio-Diesel Fuel since 2007. I tried to get a few different shots, so you can it’s not lifting, and there hasn’t been any coating degradation. Also, the fuel still does not have any cloudiness to it.

We have one that we did for Hot August Nights (big car show here) back in August 2014.  We took a panel and set it in Brake Fluid. It took several weeks for Rust Bullet to start to de-bond from the surface. If you notice in these pics, it may have de-bonded from the surface, but it did not break down the coating. Again, if the coating were to start to break down, the brake fluid would have cloudiness to it. People that saw this at our both at the car show were absolutely floored.
 

Here are some additional pictures, including the samples that are still sitting in Brake fluid — Since August. Note they did not start to come off in the brake fluid for over two weeks. The diesel fuel samples are still in tact, and they have been there since 2007!

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Coatings and Tire Tracking – Tire Marks on Garage Floor Epoxy

Tire Tracking Causes and prevention — Tire Marks on Garage Floor Epoxy

You did everything right. You spent two days grinding your floor, 2 days coating it and kept everything out of your garage for a week. Less than a month later you have ugly tire marks on your epoxy floor. The problem is way more common than you think.

One of our suppliers share this with us and we are sharing it with you, “As Is”

As many of us are aware, tire tracking and what is commonly called paw printing has been an area of concern for both National Polymers and the industry for which we serve. Accordingly, we have spent time researching this phenomena to relay information concerning the cause and preventive measures that can be taken to minimize this problem. Perhaps the most judicious approach to this problem is the education of the customer.

Phase one of our investigation was directed toward the accumulation of information to uncover the causes of paw printing. In addition, this investigation coupled with input from rubber manufacturers, has provided enough information to hypothesize the cause for the tire tracking or paw printing.

First, in the manufacture of all tire rubber, an ingredient is used as an antioxidant-antiozonant. This chemical functions as a preservative that allows the tire to remain flexible, withstand the elements of the ozone and UV degradation and enjoy a long tread life. Chemicals such as diaryl-p-phenyenediamines and N-(1,3-dimethylbutyl)-N-‘-phenyl-p-phenylenediamine are commonly used. However, depending on the manufacturer, many derivatives of this type of chemical can also be used. The use of these chemicals is so common that the chemicals are referred to by codes such as 6PPD or IPPD, depending on the manufacturer. According to a recent conversation with a major tire manufacturing engineer, the tire manufacturers are fully aware of the problem of paw printing in the coating industry. Accordingly, many tire manufacturers have selected the least detrimental (to flooring) chemical in the manufacture of tires. However, many manufacturers are still using products such as the IPPD which is far more prone to discolor a coating than the 6PPD. Many chemical reasons exist that account for the paw printing, however, in layman terms, here is what information we have found.

Products such as the 6PPD are colorless when introduced into the tire formulation and do not by itself cause the paw printing to occur. However, the moment that the 6PPD becomes oxidized, it only take a few parts per million of the 6PPD to create the typical paw print on a coating. To further compound this problem, a high aromatic greenish brown oil commonly used in the manufacture of tires, continually leaches from the tire and can contribute to the exudation of the 6PPD from the rubber. Unfortunately, the 6PPD can be easily oxidized. Once the material is oxidized, it turns to a purple/gray/black color depending on the severity of the oxidation. This color variance in conjunction with the actual concentration of the 6PPD accounts for the differing types of paw printing from slight deglossing to actual color changes. In addition, it is quite

possible for atmospheric contaminants to cause sufficient oxidation to occur, resulting in a paw print. One reason that the 2K urethane system has shown such good promise in this type of application is the inability of the 6PPD to migrate into the coating. However, even surface contact in enough concentration results in surface paw printing. Subsequently, the longer the tire remains in contact with the area, the greater the chance that enough 6PPD will leach out of the tire and into the coating itself. Given enough time in one location, not only will enough 6PPD migrate out of the tire, but the constant exposure may result in the actual migration of the chemical into the coating creating a more pronounced and deeper stain.

Many other parameters play an important role in this phenomena such as pigment volume concentration and even the curing mechanism. To further illustrate this problem, suppose that the 2K system is placed at 40 degrees F. Further suppose that 1% of the solvent does not evaporate before the reaction process causes the material to gel and form the coating on the floor. Finally, let us further presume that the solvent that was entrapped in the curing process later volatizes with the passage of time. This will create a void wherein the passage of the 6PPD will enjoy a greater probability of migration. Many such scenarios can account for many variances from job location to location as well as variances on the same job sight. In addition, this would also account for the problem being compounded by exposure to a tire surface before a full cure is achieved. If the product is 95% cured after two days, and this is a likely projection, but continues to cure for the next several days, then the window of penetration is at its greatest when the coating is new and not fully cross linked. Add in all the other variances such as the age of the tire, manufacture of the tire, temperature of the floor, atmospheric contaminants, color of the coating, length of cure, migration rate for each type of tire, specific chemicals used for each tire, weight of the vehicle, UV exposure, relative humidity, temperature of the tire and so forth and so forth for endless possibilities.

The truth of the matter is, with the exception of some colors, our coatings do not discolor. The chemicals that migrate out of the tires and then oxidizes, discolor and cause the coating to look discolored. However, until a better solution is available from the tire manufacturers, which many of them have seemed to address by the selection process for the antioxidants, the coating industry will be plagued by this problem.

Unfortunately, this is a problem that we cannot presently cure any easier than the tire industry can make tires without the use of these chemicals. However, in the interim, it is best advised to educate the customer as to the cause for this problem. First, any customer with this potential for a problem should be educated as to the cause of the problem. Next, this education process should detail the importance of allowing the coating to fully cure before exposure to tires and the chemicals that can potentially migrate. Finally, because we know the problem is random and we are unable to prevent these occasions, it would be advisable for the industry to park the vehicles on mats, corporate logo carpets or any suitable material to prevent at least long term contact to the coating. In this case, a least right now, prevention is the only cure.

Rust Bullet Testing Summary

Rust Bullet Testing Summary

Rust Bullet ASTM Testing Summary

 

ASTM Test Result
ASTM – B117 Seawater Spray Test – 500 Hours (3 Weeks) No corrosion or loss of film integrity
ASTM – D4060 Abrasion Resistance 14,000 Cycles
ASTM – D522 Flexibility and Crack Resistance – Mandrel Bend 12% Elongation – Did not exhibit any cracking or disbonding of the film
ASTM – D2794 Impact Resistance – Rapid Deformation 28 inch pound level of impact
ASTM – D870 Seawater Immersion – 336 Hours (2 Weeks) No corrosion or loss of film integrity
ASTM – D93 Thermal Stability Flash Point 123 °F, Thermal Stability 314 °F
ASTM – D2337 Thermal Shock 160°F and –20°F No corrosion or loss of film integrity. Coating not affected
ASTM – D257 DC Resistance 2.3×10(11) ohm-cm with a range of 2.1×10(11) ohm-cm to 2.4×10(11) ohm-cm
ASTM – D149 Dielectric Breakdown and Strength 8450 volts with a range of 8394 volts to 8492 volts
ASTM – G153 Weatherometer – 168 hours of Accelerated Testing No corrosion or loss of film integrity
ASTM – D3359 Measuring Adhesion – Crosshatch 100% Adhesion

 

 

Legacy Industrial Vs TrueLock Concrete Densifier

Legacy Industrial Vs TrueLock Concrete Densifier

Garage Flooring LLC and TrueLock brand are not associated with Legacy Industrial and we do not sell their Concrete Densifier products or any of their products. This information is provided for reference and comparison  purposes only. We do not sell any of their “HD” or products.

HD36 — HD36 Is claimed to be a Trademark of Legacy Industrial and is used here for comparison purposed only. While we have access to a product of identical chemical composition, we have chosen not to carry it.

HD37  — HD37 Is claimed to be a Trademark of Legacy Industrial and is used here for comparison purposed only. Based on our analysis of relevant industry information and documentation, we believe our TL37 concrete densifier to be the same composition as HD37. At the time this post was published our product was significantly less expensive.

HD39  — HD39 Is claimed to be a Trademark of Legacy Industrial and is used here for comparison purposed only. Based on our analysis of relevant industry information and documentation, we believe our TL39 concrete densifier to be the same composition as HD39. At the time this post was published our product was significantly less expensive.

HD40  — HD40 Is claimed to be a Trademark of Legacy Industrial and is used here for comparison purposed only. Based on our analysis of relevant industry information and documentation, we believe our TL40 concrete conditioner to be the same composition as HD40. We reject the notion that HD40 or TL40 is a stand-alone concrete densifier. We have checked on multiple occasions and it MUST be used on conjunction with a true concrete densifier such as our TL37 concrete densifier

Why have we gone to such great lengths to point this out? We believe incorrect information is being presented about concrete densifiers. We have published the FULL specifications from the plant on the products we sell while some of our competitors have drastically modified them. When we mentioned the issue we were strongly rebuked, even though we had full documentation from the plant.

Why do some epoxy kits cover more than others?

More often than not, we get questions about garage floor epoxy about the total system price and system coverage. Take for example a garage floor epoxy, 100% solids that we advertise at 130 Sq. Ft. per gallon. A competitor can advertise that same epoxy kit at 200 Sq. Ft. per gallon under their own label. So their system is much less expensive for the ‘same product’

Let me ask you a question: How many square feet will a gallon of water cover? We’ll it depends on deep it is, right? The same is true with epoxy products. This is a little bit of a simplification, but it will get you on the right track.

Theoretical Coverage = 1604 Sq. Ft.

A lot of garage floor epoxy products, if they state it, or even if they do not state it, use that number. Well, so what? What does that mean? That means if you could somehow manage to spread the epoxy at 1 mil (1/1000th of an Inch) thick, with 0 waste and nothing soaking in, you could cover 1604 Sq. Ft.

What does that have to do with your floor? Well, if someone is telling you that you are going to get 200 Sq. Ft. / Gallon of coverage, they are selling you a system that is about 8 Mils thick. If we tell you that same system will cover 130 Sq. Ft. you end up with a system that is closer to 12 Mils — or about 1/3rd thicker. Again, none of that accounts for the epoxy you don’t get out of your can or that sticks to your rollers, your trays, etc.

Now of course depending on the formulation, you have to be careful how thick or how thin the product is put on. If you put it on to thick, you are going to have issues. The same is true if you put it on to thin.

Now what if the product is only 70% solids? You take the 12 Mils you thought you had and you multiply it by .7 because 30% of the product you used was solvents or water and is going to evaporate out.

There are a lot of things that can done with epoxy to make it more or less expensive. We all throw out coverage areas and the more coverage we tell you, the thinner your floor. Its that simple.

An Open Letter to Garage Journal Members and Moderators

An Open Letter to Garage Journal Members and Moderators

I have personally been a member since 2007 and I 100% believe this is the single best garage flooring forum in the industry.

We have been watching with great interest the thread posted by Ryan about what to do with Garage Flooring vendors. We greatly appreciate the fact that somewhere between 70-80% of members believe vendors should have some involvement. Ryan asked that those of  us in the business refrain from commenting on that thread. And we have.

Paid Membership Only for Vendors

First, let me say that there has been a communication issue, and we take the blame. We were not proactive enough in becoming an Alliance Member and advertising. We have tried, but there were legitimate issues and it did not happen. Ryan knows where I stand on this and I can give him a credit card number today. But this is not about money.

If the forum becomes pay to play, companies like ours, and others, who are well established will have no issue participating. The forum will become unintentionally biased towards those with the money to participate as opposed to those who might have the best information. That does not benefit the forum or its users at all.

Getting Rid of Vendors All Together

You have heard the expression that if you outlaw guns, only criminals have guns. Even at present with vendors being welcome, there are sneaky people who are pretending to be an average Joe that actually have agendas and products to promote. If you get rid of vendors all-together, only those who are willing to be dishonest, and who are good at being dishonest will be represented.

There also becomes the question of reputation protection. I know Ryan has mentioned a vendor who was going to sue him and I happen to know who that is and why it came up. I think the idea of suing the forum is ludicrous. I also think at times there is the appearance of favoritism. I don’t believe any actually exists, I just think because some larger companies are better at getting away with things than smaller companies, it can appear that way at times.

Prove it? Well I can’t prove it because as I said I do not really believe it exists. I just think it appears that way, at times, to someone who is trying to protect their interests. For example, if I was a garage floor tile manufacturer, and I was told to stop pushing people to give testimonials, while another manufacturer’s customers give testimonials all the time, I might feel slighted. BUT, the truth is, that other manufacturer has been building up its testimonials in the forum for years by servicing each and every customer. Frankly, this is another reason vendors can’t go away. How many times have we seen a specific tile manufacturer fix a customer’s issue on the forum? Others too. I know we have done it. I know Legacy has done it and I know Epoxy Coat has done it.

In an example that I was involved in, we had a customer post a thread about their experience with our product. A competing manufacturer chimed in with all the reasons my products should not be used. I do not believe one company should ever say anything negative about a product that is the subject of an experience or testimonial thread — good or bad. But, it was allowed to remain. Whose fault is that though? Instead of hitting the report button, I sent a PM to the offending individual and they did nothing. I should have followed procedure and hit the report button. So again, while bias may appear to be there, its not.

Shortly after that thread, there was a customer thread regarding the use of a specific product. A vendor felt a primer coat should be done. Another vendor did not and told the customer to disregard the other vendors advice. I feel that discussions over proper application, are proper in the forum and that people should be respectful when disagreeing. It gives the forum members the ability to see both sides of an issue from experienced individuals. In this case, both  vendors were posts were stripped. The moderator inserted his link to his garage which appeared to benefit one of the two of the vendors. Bias? Probably not. The moderator was likely trying to turn the conversation into something useful for the consumer. BUT, you could see how it might feel that way.

Reputation Protection

How many times have we seen some person put a product down, completely wrong, or in the wrong application and then go to a forum to shame a vendor into helping them fix their issue. If a vendor or manufacturer has no way to reply, it forces them to look at other methods of protecting their reputation. Unfortunately, the most effective way people have found to do this is with the use of DMCA Notifications. In short, they send a notice to the site owner. If the site owner does not respond, the hosting company can be obligated to pull the site down for a period of time or until the issue is ‘fixed’.

Accurate Information

There are a lot of senior members on the forum who are very well educated and who have used the products themselves. They often chime in with great advice. But there is also an abundance of BAD advice and bad applications.

A few months ago their was a post from a guy who was installing a product in such a way that was completely wrong and he was telling others how to do the same. There is likely not another individual on the forum with the experience with this product line that we have.

We politely advised the customer that this was not the right way to install this product, and in all honesty, even though its a product we sell, it was not the right product. He proceeded with his job anyway and we gave him some ideas on how to minimize his risks.

VCT is another area. We were able to get the leading VCT manufacturer to post into the forum about the issues with using VCT in a garage. People still do it, but, the information that needs to be out there is out there.

Consumers can give raving reviews about how a 75% water based product with no prep is an outstanding way to coat a shop floor….. Sometimes vendors need to clarify that, even on their own product.

Unseen Benefits

We recently gave 6 floors to customers at cost. It was only to forum members. One of those 6 put the floor down wrong and they knew it. We were able to help them fix it. We provide discounts to members at all times.

Sometimes gray area issues are fixed by vendors as a customer service where they might not normally do so.

Many times the user finds a better way to do things.

But What About Rules and Regulations

Vendors should never be allowed to bash each each other or even other manufacturers or vendors that are not present on the forum.

Competing vendors should stay off testimonial and experience threads.

Discussions about proper technique should be done properly and respectfully.

Telling vendors they can’t talk about their specific brand is useless and dangerous. For example, if I changed every mention of Rust Bullet to Moisture Cured Urethane, I would be giving dangerous advice to consumers. There are very few urethane products that can do what Rust Bullet does.

One link in your signature

From within posts you can link to a product or an article if it is specifically necessary to the thread and improves it OR if you are adding a benefit or promotion to GJ members only. Those drive new users.

No hijacking threads

No personal or corporate attacks

You must disclose PROFESSIONAL affiliations.

Race Deck and I have had an agreement since 2012 to basically stay off each others threads. If there is a thread that is JUST about Race Deck, I leave it alone. He leaves threads about my products alone. To my knowledge we had one major difference of opinion since that time and it was handled via PM. We still don’t agree on the issue, but in the end it really doesn’t matter, does it? It really does not need to be public, does it?

The Golden Rule: If your post benefits you more than the user, don’t post it.

The Paid Stuff

It is important for legal and ethical reasons that any benefits of trade or paid promotions be stated. As an example, If I trade a free floor to the moderator in exchange for advertising and alliance benefits, and the moderator makes a post about that floor, he should disclose  that he got the floor for free or in trade. I HAVE ABSOLUTELY NO KNOWLEDGE OF ANYTHING LIKE THAT EVER HAPPENING.

If I am allowed to promote my product more because I am an alliance member, my signature should state This vendor has paid a fee to participate at a greater level in this forum.

At The End of The Day

The garage journal is a private business and has a right to do business as they see fit. To many lives have been lost to protect the freedoms we have in this country to minimize those freedoms by stating that GJ does not have the right to do what it is they want to do.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Rust Bullet Garage Project Houston TX

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Important Note: This is a project profile that contains information on how this customer did his job and what he would do differently. This is not a suggestion on how you should do your floor. Please see our instructions for that.

Project  Size: 250 sq. ft.

Project Location: Houston, TX

Products used:

– 1/3 gallon metal blast

– 1 2/3 gallons of Rust Bullet

– 1 gallon of Rust bullet clear

– White, grey, black flakes

 

Hurdles

– None to really speak of, I was pretty prepared based on research and grinding the floor didn’t leave for any surprises.

My garage is a single car garage and is about 250 sq. ft. in size. After researching different epoxy coatings I settled on Rust Bullet with its advertisement of being fairly simple to install.  I wanted the grey look personally so the color was a perfect match for what I wanted.  My house was built about 60 years ago.  I do not know if the garage was built at that time or not, however the floor actually looked in good condition.  There weren’t many large cracks or holes.  There were a few.  The floor was rather smooth though from general wear and I wasn’t 100% positive if a previous sealant had been used.

To prep the floor I went ahead and used the metal blast to remove oil spots. The instructions on the metal blast were pretty basic.  They pretty much just said to dump the product on and let it sit for about 20 minutes and then wash it off.  I had about 5 suspected spots I dumped it on and while it was sitting, I went around and grinded the floor.  I figured my floor was too old to just try and acid wash and I didn’t want to risk having the product failed.  Given that my garage is smaller I just used a 4.5″ angle grinder and a diamond cup wheel and grinded the floor down.  As I approached a metal blast spot I just wiped it up a little and then grinded over it.   After I grinded the area it was mostly dry and I didn’t see any oil.

After grinding the floor I used epoxy patch to patch holes and cracks.  I didn’t fill every hole.  If I had to go back I would.  Rust bullet is not thick enough to fill the holes and cracks unless you intentionally cake it on with a brush [which is not a good idea].  After the epoxy dried on the holes I filled I smoothed them with the grinder and then everything was ready to go.

The application process was very simple.  I used a 9″ roller and I did about 1 quart of rust bullet at a time.  The first coating took about 3/4 of a gallon.  The 2nd coat was about 1/3 gallon and the last coat was about 1/2 gallon.  I tried to go extra thick on the last coat.  I spaced the coatings about 12 hrs apart, and in Houston weather that was more than enough.  I don’t believe anymore than 12 hrs is necessary.  The weather ranged from about 50 in the morning to 75 degrees in the evening.  At the end of the 3rd application I walked around with my spiked shoes and threw down my flakes.

One thing that wasn’t clear was what to do with the dirty rollers and brushes.  I tried reusing them once without success.  Rust bullet really starts to clump up and form a skin on it after a few hours.  The easiest solution for me was to just throw away the used ones and use new rollers and pans. It would be useful to include this information or information on how to clean off the rollers.  Water is not effective. [We recommend Rust Bullet Solvent for cleaning and we recommend discarding roller covers after each application.]

I waited 24 hrs before starting the clear coat.  The clear went on about like the rust bullet itself went down.  I did a thinner first coat (less than 1/4 gallon) with no anti skid in it.  That worked well.  The flakes had adhered well enough to base layer and they really didn’t come up at all when I rolled on the clear.  I waited 12 hrs and then I mixed in the anti skid.  Again, I did one quart at a time meaning I poured and mixed 1 quart with anti skid and then rolled it on.  At the end of the 2nd coat I had slightly less than 1/4 gallon left.  I used most of the rest touching up the edges with a brush.  Really 1 gallon and 1 quart would have been the appropriate amount for the clear.

I am really pleased with the end product.  It looks great.  After about 24 hrs I felt like the floor was dry enough to walk on.  It feels like a pretty tough shell.  Like I said, the gaps and cracks are still visible.  The flakes hide a lot so it really wasn’t a big deal.

 

Why use Garage Flooring? What is The Purpose?

Why use Garage Flooring? What is The Purpose?

diamond-concreteSo my wife comes home with this ‘thing’ to hang on the wall. Knowing my wife she got it at a great deal. Being a man, my first reaction is not how much did it cost, but what does it do? It’s a very natural reaction. When I am talking to friends or other business owners, I get that same question about garage flooring a lot. “Wow that looks nice, but why?”

The truth is, if you have to make a choice between a new clutch for your car or a new garage floor mat, garage flooring is likely not a priority. In many cases though finding an affording and attractive product to cover the concrete makes all the sense in the world. Here are a few reasons why:

Usable Space

My wife and I live in a relatively modest sized home in Fruita, CO. Nothing fancy but a house we really love. Truth is it is probably a little small. We have two kids sharing a bedroom and another in a room that was converted from and office. In our home space is at a premium.

The walls in our garage were already finished. By spending a very small amount of money on some flooring we were able to increase the usable space in our home by 20-25% Frankly it is the cheapest square footage you will ever buy.

Protecting the Concrete

Sometimes we have cars that leak or we do work in a garage that is going to damage the floor or at the very least make it less attractive. Certain types of garage flooring, such as a good coating or mats can offer substantial protection to the slab below.

Safety Concerns & Containment

In some parts of the country we track incredible amounts of moisture into the garage. Garage flooring can help contain that moisture, or in the case of ribbed tiles, keep you up and out of the moisture.

This helps give you a safe and dry place to walk and also makes your floor less slippery. It also helps reduce the amount of dirt and debris tracked into the home.

Other Reasons

There are a lot of other reasons people will do garage flooring, but when it comes down to it, most of them can fit into one of the categories above. For example: “I want a mancave” fits into usable space.

Whatever your reason for looking for garage flooring, we have an outstanding selection and a team of individuals dedicated to helping you find the best product for your needs!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Best Inexpensive Options for Garage Flooring

The Best Inexpensive (not cheap) Options for Garage Flooring

  1. For under .90/ Sq. Ft. you can coat your floor with a quality urethane garage floor coating that will not flake, peel or lift from hot tires. It requires no acid etching or grinding. Will not yellow. This product is without a doubt the single best value in the industry.
  2. For $1.50 – $1.90 /Sq. Ft. you can go with the inexpensive G-Floor Ribbed garage floor mat or perhaps the best value in roll out flooring, the G-Floor Small Coin garage floor mat. At ~1.90/Sq. Ft. The G-Floor Small Coin product is an amazing deal and in fact I have it in my own garage.
  3. For $2.29 a square foot, and with multiple outstanding reviews. and highly publicized video reviews from applications that would normally be considered ‘above its price point’ the TrueLock Diamond garage floor tile is a quality garage tile product at a price point designed to compete with the cheap imports.

The bottom line is sometimes when you are looking for a cheap product for your garage, you get exactly what you are looking for. At Garage Flooring LLC we hold ourselves and our products to the highest standards. These product are guaranteed to be quality garage flooring options at a price you can afford!

Clear Finish for Concrete and Garage Floors

Clear Finish and Sealer for Concrete and Garage Floors

While some customers want to add color to their garage floor, others are looking for a simply, clear finish to protect their floor. We have options for both, but this post is specific for those customers who are looking to seal their floor with a clear coat.

One option would be to go with an acrylic floor finish specifically designed for concrete. Options include products like the TL8400 which is designed to penetrate and protect concrete floors including garage floors. Acrylic finishes are considered to be sacrificial and will need to be redone from time to time

Another option is to use a high quality, non-yellowing urethane. Our Rust Bullet Clear Shot can be used directly over concrete. In applications where clear coat is going directly over concrete we recommend three to four coats. We also recommend anti-skid in the top coat.

If you are looking for a coating that will not yellow, our Rust Bullet Clear is specifically designed for exterior use and is non-yellowing.

The advantage of using our urethane is they offer a high gloss, permanent coating that is attractive and rock hard.

 

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